解析2020美白新趨勢September 30, 2020
Asian women are known for their obsession for skin fairness. Just as the saying goes, “A fair complexion is powerful enough to hide three faults.” In the eyes of Asian women, fair complexion is almost a synonym for beauty! According to a survey by the World Health Organization (WHO), as high as 40% of women in China, Malaysia, the Philippines, and South Korea use skin lightening products. How to achieve effective skin lightening? Dr. Beauty has invited 4 dermatologists to give you the insights on the latest spot lightening trends!
Q: What are commercially available spot-lightening ingredients for skincare and medicinal drugs?
Dr. Yung-Hsueh Huang: Most commercially available skin lightening skincare ingredients such as kojic acid, arbutin, tranexamic acid, etc. inhibit the activity of tyrosinase which leads to the inhibition of the synthesis of melanin. The most commonly known ingredient in pigmented spots correction medicinal products is hydroquinone, which has been used to treat pigmentation for decades. Although it has better efficacy than whitening skincare products, one of the key disadvantages of it is being more irritating on the skin, causing an increase in dopa content during the process of melanin formation. When the increased dopa content combines with collagen, melanin will be deposited in the dermis layer, leading to irreversible melanin pigmentation also known as ochronosis. This condition is a permanent pigmentation. Currently, ochronosis can only be improved with microdermabrasion laser. Therefore, clinically, doctors are more cautious when using products that contain hydroquinone as one of the ingredients.
According to the latest research on international medical journals, cysteamine is comparable to hydroquinone, with better results than skincare products and without the side effects of hydroquinone. Cysteamine features dual effects: it not only inhibits tyrosinase, but also promotes the synthesis of pheomelanin (light pigment). It can effectively lighten spots and alleviate pigmentation, bringing out a more even and brighter overall skin tone.
Q: What is Cysteamine? How can it reduce melanin? pigmentation?
Dr. ViVi Cheng: UV light is an invisible killer for our skin dullness. Take Asian regions for instance, the UV radiation is 2.5 times that of European regions, with a higher rate of melanin formation by six-folds. The amount of melanin produced by melanocytes in Asians is twice of that of European people. That is why people keeps searching for ways to lighten their skin. However, melanin formation is a chain reaction. It needs to be dealt with from the source of origin, and all links have to be blocked in order to effectively block the formation of the melanin.
Cysteamine is a natural antioxidant that can be produced and existed in human body. In addition to its powerful antioxidant activity, it is able to inhibit melanin formation through effective and diversified mechanisms of action to reduce pigmentation. In view of commercially available skin lightening ingredients, most of them can only inhibit the formation of melanin. Skin lightening cream formulated with Cysteamine, not only it can reduce the formation of eumelanin (dark pigment) to lighter spots and reduce pigmentation, it also promotes the synthesis of pheomelanin – light pigment that makes your skin pinkish. With the dual effects of cysteamine, it can therefore achieve spot lightening and skin brightening more effectively.
Q: How to use Cysteamine cream? Can Cysteamine cream be combined with laser treatment ?
Dr. Celina Chuang: Based on my personal experience, I would suggest to use this cream in two ways: general maintenance and advanced treatment.. For general maintenance, it is recommended to use it after washing the face. Let it stand for 10~15 minutes and then wash it off. For more visible skin lightening results, daily use is preferred. If you do not mind the smell, you can even use it as an overnight face mask, applying it, and leaving it on all night. For advanced treatment, use cysteamine and retinoids conjunctively. The effectiveness on more stubborn melasma can usually be seen after two weeks of usage.
For whitening and spot-lightening treatments (such as PicoSecond Laser or Intense Pulse Light), with just one treatment, a lot of melanin can be lightened. However, without proper care of the skin after laser treatments, the pigment is likely to come back with sun and light exposure. Laser is a short-term treatment and requires long-term care to maintain the result. Cysteamine spot correcting cream can retain the effects of laser and increase patient satisfaction. However, the cream should be used 1-2 weeks after undergone laser treatment and with the instructions of the doctor to produce the best results.
Q: Can cysteamine cream be used on other body parts?
Dr. Bill Che-Hao Hsu: Cysteamine cream is intended for use on local pigmented areas (e.g. people with face dullness, spots, local pigmentation due to exposure to the sun or inflammation, dullness of knees and elbows due to friction, pigmentation in the armpits or intimate areas, as well as lips). However, when applying the cream on sensitive areas, such as the lips, armpits, or intimate areas, please use it with care. It is recommended that the cream needs to be diluted with same portion of mild lotion. After applying the Cysteamine cream for 15 minutes, wash it off with gentle skin cleanser and increase moisturization on the area.
Cysteamine cream is currently being recommended by doctors as home therapy when treating melasma. A complete treatment cycle is 12 consecutive weeks of daily use, after which obvious results of lightened pigmentation will be seen. As reminded by Dr. Hsu, very few cases may experience slight irritation after use, which can be resolved by increasing moisturizer in most cases. If the irritation persists, suspend product usage and consult a dermatologist for professional advice.
Cyspera® (cysteamine) Intensive Pigment Corrector
It is the only spot correcting skincare product with 5% cysteamine as the key ingredient. It is suitable for all skin phototypes and can be used not only on the face but also other body parts. The product does not contain photosensitive ingredients and can be used regardless of sun intensity. To achieve better whitening results, sun protection is essential. Daily use of broad spectrum sunscreen with sun protection factor (SPF) 30 or higher is recommended to protect the skin from the sun’s harmful UV rays.
The application of Cyspera® is just like the wash-off facial masks. The steps are: (1) After washing the face wait for an hour; or After washing the face, apply a layer of lotion and wait for 15 minutes. 2) Apply a thin layer of Cyspera® on the face and leave it on for 15 minutes and then wash it off with gentle skin cleanser; or (3) After waking up in the morning, apply a thin layer of Cyspera® over the face. Because thru out the night our skin will secrete oil naturally. After 15 minutes, wash it off with gentle skin cleanser. Then apply rich hydrating moisturizer and sunscreen to maintain the skin hydration and protecting it during the day.
Text/ F Layout Design/J This article acknowledges and extends its gratitude to Dr. Yung-Hsueh Huang, Dr. Vivi Cheng, Dr. Celina Chuang, and Dr. Bill Che-Hao Hsu for their professional advice.